After a bountiful buffet breakfast (fruits, tomatoes, cucumbers, lebani, cheeses, olives, eggs any number of ways, breads, cereals, yogurts,... ) we boarded our bus for Nazareth. We noticed how hillsides were greener than we had expected following the usual dry summer. Evidently the rain of last week (which we had noted in the Chicago paper) resulted quickly in new growth
We passed through the town of Cana on our way--amazing how much these small towns have grown since I first visited here 35 years ago! Each one covers multiple hills, with crowded buildings and congested roads. At Nazareth we left the bus and walked through the market street to the Annunciation Basilica. This place is always so moving to visit: the architecture and artwork, mosaics, the dome, the light. We saw also the synagogue, walked the streets to Said's original family home, and visited Mary's Well familiar terrain, pleasant to revisit. I have to remember to make the effort to re-imagine how it felt on my first viewing, so that I can relate to how our group is feeling. I try to look at the rocks, the grotto below the sanctuary, and think about a town long ago, and the people who walked and lived there day after day; to imagine the millions of Christians across the centuries who have stood in these same places, each one imagining the Lord Jesus alive among them.
Next, on to the city of Sephoris--now an archeological site still in progress. Said worked here for two weeks when he was on a sabbatical in 1993. Beautiful--amazing mosaics. We walked the "cardo", the main shopping street of a Roman city, on marble pavement blocks, rutted by chariot wheels. How wonderful it would be to see such a city in all its glory!
A quick pita sandwich at a felafel shop in Cana, then on to Mount Tabor, quiet and tranquil ( that is, after a sometime harrowing taxi ride up steep switchbacks to the top).You can so easily imagine this being the location of a "mountaintop experience"! Fresh new green sprouts softened the ground; history and mystery in the ruins; gardens accentuating the natural beauty of the setting; the view of the Jezreel valley spreading below us, green and fertile; mountains fading into the haze. The church with its mosaics and filtered light, brilliant mediterranean blue and dazzling gold; the glimpse of the rock through a peephole in the floor--imagine Jesus' sandal-shod feet pressing his weight just there....
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped and visited the Greek Catholic church in Tiberias. Last night after dinner, Said and I took a walk and came upon this church. It was in a small compound, enclosed by fencing--unlabeled--but we deduced that this was the church where Said's family attended, were baptized, etc.
Looking over the fence, Said saw that there was a gathering, a meal taking place in the churchyard; and he recognized the priest from Eilaboun! He didn't want to interrupt, but I encouraged him to go in and say hello, and ask to see the church. Which we did and were welcomed on sight by the Father singing to us! It was a chant from the liturgy, probably; such an unexpected, but authentic bit of Middle Eastern custom!
We did see the sanctuary, which had been restored to usability, if not full beauty. (It had been deserted, unused since 1948, when all the Palestinians were forced out of town, until 1965 when they regained custody of it. Refurbishing was done gradually, and worship resumed only 5 years ago.) We were invited to bring the group back for a visit the next day. Our visit included a sample of Greek Catholic liturgy sung by Gabi and a spoken prayer in Arabic. The caretaker gave everyone a bit of holy oil in cotton, or a small cross and some incense. I think it was a very special experience for everyone--a simple, unadorned example of Palestinian culture and piety.
Said and I took a walk before dinner, taking in the length of the main commercial street in Tiberias--probably the area where Said's father's hardware shop would have been, in one of the "old Tiberias" buildings. Up the hill a short distance was a fresh produce market. It's always fun to look at the local bounty--piles of red and green peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, cabbage, sweet potato, romaine, cauliflower, grapes, pomegranates, lemons, oranges, persimmons, guavas, pears, apples, bananas. All the ingredients we find on our bountiful buffet table each meal!
Wish you were here with us!
Helen Ailabouni
While we wish we were with you all, also, your writing is so lovely that I almost feel as if I am! Looking forward to the rest of your travels.
Kerry
Posted by: Kerry Forsythe - Grace | 11/11/2009 at 06:27 PM